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St. Augustine Grass Seasonal Maintenance - Fall 2011

Video Notes:


Step 1 - Fertilization. We recommend something with a 1-0-2 ratio. In other words, 1 part nitrogen, 0 parts phosphorus, and 2 parts potassium....like an 8-0-16 for example. Obviously the 1-0-2 ratio is meant as a starting point. A local expert can better give you specific needs for your area. If you have trouble finding a fertilizer with that ratio, a fertilizer with a 1-0-1 ratio will also be acceptable.

Optional Steps 2, 3, 4

Step 2 - Fungicide. Watch for fungus outbreaks like large patch and grey leaf spot. Large patch appears in somewhat circular patterns...usually about 2 to 3 feet in diameter. Grey leaf spot is easily recognizable by grey lesions on the grass blade. If you have had a fungus in your St. Augustine or suspect you have one, put down a fungicide to help the grass enter into the cold months healthier. You will likely need multiple applications. Remember to wait 21 days between each application.

Step 3 - Insecticide. With the exception of the resistant St. Augustine Captiva, it's been another bad year in many places for the dreaded chinch bug....the number one lawn enemy of St. Augustine grass. Chinch bugs are about the size of the tip of a writing pen but can be seen if you get down on your hands and knees. Something else that has been bad this year are fall armyworms. They are much easier to spot as they chow down on your lawn. Heres the thing, if you have had or suspect you have pests, you can spray your lawn with insecticide to get rid of them. But if you don't have any lawn pests, and don't suspect that you do, you can hold off putting down insecticide in the fall.

Step 4 - Weed Control. When the temperatures start dropping, summer weeds will start dying off and winter weeds will start to pop up. In some areas of the country, winter weeds aren't a big problem. If you haven't had problems with them in the past, forgo putting down any herbicide this fall. However, if you know that weeds in the winter time are an issue for you, get a pre-emergent herbicide from your local lawn care store and apply it to the lawn now to stop the winter weeds from popping up.

Step 5 - Mowing. Mowing in the cooler months is slightly different. Leave the St. Augustine a little bit higher than normal to encourage deeper root growth for the winter. Basically adjust your mower settings to go up one notch.

Step 6 - Watering. As for watering, as temperatures drop, grasses won't need as much irrigation....so adjust your watering schedule accordingly. Too much watering can lead to fungus and disease outbreaks.

Remember with all lawn products be it fertilizer, insecticide or herbicide...read the label and follow the proper instructions.

EMPIRE Turf - Care and Maintenance - Fall 2011

Video Notes:


Step 1 - Fertilization.  We recommend something with a 1-0-2 ratio. In other words, 1 part nitrogen, 0 parts phosphorus, and 2 parts potassium....like an 8-0-16 for example. Obviously the 1-0-2 ratio is meant as a starting point. A local expert can better give you specific needs for your area. If you have trouble finding a fertilizer with that ratio, a fertilizer with a 1-0-1 ratio will also be acceptable.

Step 2 - Billbug Control Insecticide.  One great thing about EMPIRE Turf is that Chinch Bugs don't like it. Chinch bugs are a huge problem in St. Augustine grass lawns. The main insects you have to watch out for with EMPRIE are billbugs. Hunting bullbugs are small black insects. As an EMPIRE lawn owner, the thing we recommend doing is to go ahead and put down billbug control in the fall and in the spring whether you have had issues with the hunting billbug in the past or not. Make sure it's a broad spectrum insecticide.

Optional Step 3 - Fungicide.  Look out for fungus in your EMPIRE like large patch. This fungus appears in somewhat circular patterns...usually about 2 to 3 feet in diameter. If you have had fungus before or suspect you have a fungus in your lawn currently,  put down a fungicide to helwp the grass enter the cold months healthier. For fungicide, you will likely need multiple applications. Remember to wait 21 days between each application.   

Optional Step 4 - Weed Control.  When the temperatures start dropping, summer weeds will start dying off and winter weeds will start to pop up. In some areas of the country, winter weeds aren't a big problem. If you haven't had problems with them in the past, forgo putting down any herbicide this fall. However, if you know that weeds in the winter time are an issue for you, get a pre-emergent herbicide from your local lawn care store and apply it to the lawn now to stop the winter weeds from popping up.

Step 5 - Mowing.  Mowing in the cooler months is slightly different. Leave the EMPIRE a little bit higher than normal to encourage deeper root growth for the winter. Basically adjust your mower settings to go up one notch.

Step 6 - Watering.  As for watering, as temperatures drop, grasses won't need as much irrigation....so adjust your watering schedule accordingly. Too much watering can lead to fungus and disease outbreaks.  

Remember with all lawn products be it fertilizer, insecticide or herbicide...read the label and follow the proper instructions.

Wine grapes might not suit South Florida's climate...but tropical fruits do. Schnebly Redland's Winery in Homestead uses an assortment of tropical delicasies to create some unique wines. EMPIRE Turf Zoysiagrass and Celebration Bermudagrass help complete the tropical look.

From LSU Professor Dr. Ron Strahan - Armyworm alerts and chinch bug outbreaks.  This applies to the entire Southeast.  Read more by clicking below on the LTA Turfgrass Insider.  Follow Dr. Strahan on Twitter at (LSUturf) or on facebook at Ron Strahan.  

 


St. Augustine Grass - Care and Maintenance - Summer 2011

Video Notes:


Step 1 - Fertilization.  If you didn't fertilize in the Spring, you can apply a fertilizer with a 1-1 ration of nitrogen to potassium...like a 15-0-15.  The middle number is phosphorus and it can usually be zero.  If you did fertilize in the Spring, you can wait till late Summer or early Fall to do so again.  A 2-0-1 ratio fertilizer is also ok for St. Augustines....like a 16-0-8.

Step 2 - Irrigation.  Don't overwater in the hot months.  St. Augustines need about an inch of water per week either from in-ground irrigation or natural rainfall.  Water in the early morning hours for best results.  Too much water can lead to fungus outbreaks, like Grey Leaf Spot.  

Step 3 - Mowing.  You will likely mow more often in the Summer.  Just make sure to not remove more than 1/3 of the leaf blade when mowing.  Mowing too low can stress the grass and it will turn brown.  If you miss a mowing, it might take multiple mowings to get the grass back to the height you like.  Wait about 3-5 days between each mowing.  

Watch out for Chinch Bugs.  If you find them in you yard, use an insecticide with bifenthrin or carbaryl to get rid of the infestation.    

 

 


EMPIRE Turf - Care and Maintenance - Summer 2011

Video Notes:


Step 1 - Fertilization.  If you didn't fertilize in the Spring, you can apply a fertilizer with a 1-1 ration of nitrogen to potassium...like a 15-0-15.  The middle number is phosphorus and it can usually be zero.  If you did fertilize in the Spring, you can wait till late Summer or early Fall to do so again. 

Step 2 - Irrigation.  Don't overwater in the hot months.  EMPIRE needs about an inch of water per week either from in-ground irrigation or natural rainfall.  Wait for a sign that the grass is in need of watering before irrigating...like blades of the EMPIRE Turf wilting.  Water in the early morning hours for best results.  Too much water can lead to fungus outbreaks, like Large Patch.  

Step 3 - Mowing.  You will likely mow more often in the Summer.  Just make sure to not remove more than 1/3 of the leaf blade when mowing.  Mowing too low can stress the grass and it will turn brown.  If you miss a mowing, it might take multiple mowings to get the grass back to the height you like.  Wait about 3-5 days between each mowing.  

Watch out for Hunting Billbugs.  If you have had them in the past but are free of them at the moment, treat with an insecticide application this fall.

 

St. Augustine Grass - Care and Maintenance - Spring

Video Notes:


Step 1 - Apply Fertilizer.  We recommend something with a 2-0-1 ratio  (eg...(16-0-8))

Step 2 - Prevent the onset of Summer weeds by applying Pre-emergent herbicide.  You can buy it already mixed in with the fertilizer.

Step 3 - Watch out for fungus...especially Grey-Leaf Spot and Brown Patch.  If you have had problems before or have an area with extra shade or moisture, apply a fungicide with an active ingredient.  Water 1 inch per week, either from natural rainfall or from inground irrigation.  Overwatering can lead to disease of turfgrass.

Step 4 - Hold off applying insecticide to begin Spring.  Monitor grass each week.  Chinch bugs are the number one St. Augustine enemy, but usually start showing up in Summer through early Fall.  If you get chinch bugs, treat with an insecticide that contains Bifenthrin or Carbaryl. 

 

 

EMPIRE Turf - Care and Maintenance - Spring
Get your EMPIRE Turf zoysia lawn ready for Spring and Summer.  This video will guide you through some simple care instructions for getting your EMPIRE lawn looking its best. 

Video Notes:

Step 1 - MOW LOW.  For the first mowing of the year, scalp the lawn with the mower and bag the clippings.

Step 2 - Apply Fertilizer.  We recommend a 1-0-1 ratio.  (eg...(15-0-15))

Step 3 - Apply Pre-emergent herbicide to prevent summer weeds.  You can buy it already mixed in with fertilizer.

Step 4 - To prevent Billbugs and other insect pests, put down a broad spectrum insecticide containing bifenthrin.  Make sure to water any granular insecticides into the lawn.

Step 5 - EMPIRE Turf needs about 3/4 of an inch of water per week from either natural rainfall or inground irrigation.  Overwatering can lead to fungus outbreaks.  If needed, put down a systemic fungicide with an active ingredient.

 

 

 

EMPIRE Turf - Late Winter Checklist

Video Notes:

As your EMPIRE zoysia starts to green back up after temperatures get warmer, you may notice brown spots or what appear to be dead patches that aren't coming back like the rest of the yard. If this happens, there are two things you need to look out for.

The first is possible billbug damage. These insects can and will infest an untreated empire lawn even through a cold winter. You can tell by lifting up a section of the turf and you should be able to see them. The adult is a small dark colored weevil with a snout. The larve for the billbug will be in the soil and it looks like a white grub worm. If you find either one of these, you want to get on a spraying program. Apply bifenthrin products to the entire lawn....not just the dead area to kill off the adults. Then apply a chemical called midacloprid (mid-ah-cloe-prid) to kill off the larve. Even if your empire hasn't greened up yet, its ok to apply those insecticides. Billbugs can be a year round threat and you want to stay on top of things or they can do some real damage. Check out more photos at sodsolutions.com/insects.

If you don't find any billbugs in your dead area, you might have a lawn fungus called large patch fungus. You can recognize this disease by thin grass leaves that appear bleached out....and the area between healthy grass and the fungus might appear an orange-bronze color.

If you have large patch, you will want to spray with peroxide based materials like Oxidate. Then a few days later, come in with a systemic fungicide that is labeled for large patch. Oxidate cleans the lawn up...basically gets rid of the fungus, and then the systemic fungicide provides for future prevention. If you can't find over the counter peroxide based materials, call a lawncare company and they will have access to them and can apply it for you.

St. Augustine Grass Late Winter Checklist

Video Notes:

Watching out for winter kill:

Looking at the stolons can tell you. The stolons are the running vine looking appendages of the grass. Even when the grass is brown, the stolons should be somewhat green which means the grass is probably healthy. If you tear open the stolon and it should have green inside. If the stolons are mushy and don't have much green to them, that part of your yard might have died from the cold. Winter-kill usually shows up in patches or sections of the yard...based on soil moisture.

So, if you do have find you have winter kill, there are a couple of options to get your lawn looking good again. If the entire lawn hasn't died out and there is healthy grass around the patch of winterkill, you can always wait for the grass to grow back over the dead area but it can be a long process. If you choose to go this route, leave the dead St. Augustine in place to help keep out weeds. You can encourage quicker growth by mowing the grass tighter.

Most don't have the patience for that if it's a larger area...so option 2 is to call your local grass company and re-sod that part of the lawn. The new grass will tack down and blend in quickly.